Home NEWSFASHION Why unique clocks are on the rise in high horology: from Van Cleef & Arpels and Jaeger-LeCoultre to award-winning independent house L’Epée 1839 – a timepiece brand that A$AP Rocky featured in his MV

Why unique clocks are on the rise in high horology: from Van Cleef & Arpels and Jaeger-LeCoultre to award-winning independent house L’Epée 1839 – a timepiece brand that A$AP Rocky featured in his MV

by vergexpress

The world of excessive horology revolves round craftsmanship and artistry that’s geared in the direction of timekeeping, however is generally involved with the myriad wristwatches that dominate impartial and luxurious model spheres.

At this time, most individuals can examine the time, atomically correct and all, just by their cellphone. Excessive horology watches have grow to be timekeeping equipment – handy, sure, however extra an aesthetic or private selection than a utilitarian one.

However what concerning the timepieces that preceded wristwatches themselves?

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Atmos Infinite clock from the Stellar Odyssey exhibition. Photograph: Jaeger-LeCoultre

Clocks, traditionally essentially the most ubiquitous mechanical timekeeping gadgets, have now equally worn out their usefulness – probably much more so than wristwatches. At this time’s identified clocks are both restricted to some precious, singular names or primarily showcase automata for aesthetic causes over timekeeping ones. They’re fantastic and present mechanical intrigue extra visibly, however are massive and normally restricted to residence use nonetheless.

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Van Cleef & Arpels’ Éveil du Cyclamen automaton clock, nominated for the mechanical clock class on the GPHG.
Manufacturers like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Van Cleef & Arpels virtually stand alone as mainstream watch manufacturers who carry excessive horology clocks in any respect. The previous is most identified for its Atmos clock that transforms ambient temperature into mechanical power to energy its timekeeping, and the latter is thought for its automata – most just lately it launched the Éveil du Cyclamen Automaton, which was nominated within the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève’s (GPHG) Mechanical Clock class in 2023, the one non-independent model to take action.
Urwerk Area-Time Blade, initially slated for public sale at Solely Watch 2023. Photograph: Urwerk
In actual fact, a few of 2023’s most memorable clocks got here from impartial homes. Urwerk evoked sci-fi and lightsabres for its Area-Time Blade supposed for the Solely Watch public sale earlier than it was postponed. The opposite noteworthy nominees from GPHG’s mechanical clock class included a two-dial eccentric journey clock design from Alain Silberstein.

In the meantime, the Unnamed Society produced a clock hidden inside a soccer, and one of many non-category awards, the Audacity award – which honours any timepiece, watch or in any other case, with an offbeat, nonconformist design – went to Maison Alcée for its Persée Azur.

GPHG 2023 Audacity Prize winner Maison Alcée’s Persée Azur clock. Photograph: Maison Alcée

Nonetheless, maybe essentially the most poignant instance of clocks in 2023 is the winner of the mechanical clocks class – and the mastermind behind it.

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Arnaud Nicolas, CEO of L’Epée 1839. Photograph: Miguel Bueno

Based by Auguste L’Epée and Pierre-Henri Paur in 1839, L’Epée 1839 is now a proud impartial producer of edgy, futuristic clocks helmed by CEO Arnaud Nicolas. Its Sixties automobile-inspired Time Quick II Chrome took residence the mechanical clocks prize in 2023. And when Nicolas visited Wristcheck Hong Kong again in September, we bought an opportunity to take a seat down with him and focus on the Time Quick II.

“Clocks are the place the artwork/coronary heart and mechanics meet,” Nicolas defined. “With wristwatches you type of look from afar and it’s troublesome to begin conversations, however with clocks you’ll be able to simply go as much as them and share the surprise collectively. Inventive Artwork clocks are true 3D artwork, ” he stated, referring to L’Epée 1839’s line of clocks.

L’Epée 1839 Time Quick II Chrome took residence the Mechanical Clocks prize at GPHG. Photograph: L’Epée 1839

Nicolas’ path to clocks displays his present philosophy. He didn’t spend his pre-L’Epée 1839 years on different pursuits adjoining to watchmaking, however as a substitute was an aerospace engineer. Nonetheless, since he was a toddler, Nicolas had at all times been inquisitive about artwork and automobiles. “The Inventive Artwork line, with clocks just like the Time Quick, have been my manner of bringing all the things collectively,” he declared.

Inside mechanisms of L’Epée 1839’s Time Quick II Chrome clock. Photograph: L’Epée 1839

The Time Quick II is actually a worthy fruits. Each piece of automata is impressed by the elements of the automotive or of the driving force itself. An ignition swap begins the engine mechanism, the steering wheel is used to alter the time that’s is proven on the front-mounted engine, the gear lever modifications between the timekeeping motion and the engine automata, and – most entertaining of all – the automotive could be pulled again as one would a matchbox automotive to wind the timekeeping motion. All of that is housed in a glossy Sixties-inspired chassis.

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Arnaud Nicolas, CEO of L’Epée 1839, takes residence the award for winner of the mechanical clock prize 2023. Photograph: Miguel Bueno

Such a bit is designed image-first, in response to Nicolas. It takes round two years from preliminary conception to supply, with more often than not spent engineering the piece to work correctly. Nicolas estimates he has round 40 totally different concepts going at one time.

“When L’Epée 1839 designs a clock,” he explains, “they by no means begin with an present motion, however with a white web page. The motion is designed concurrently the physique, not earlier than. This permits us rather more creativity and freedom in design. And, final however not least, it permits us to begin with the story we wish to inform with our object.”

L’Epée 1839 x MB&F TriPod has insectlike legs. Photograph: L’Epée 1839
This strategy has endeared the model to watchmakers and popular culture figures alike. Nicolas has a long-standing collaboration with additionally sci fi-inspired watchmaker Maximilian Büsser and his MB&F model, and the model’s design acumen even as soon as caught the eye of A$AP Rocky.

Earlier, the rapper wore the model’s Grenade piece – iced out by jeweller Alex Moss – on a sequence in his music video for “Riot (Rowdy Pipe’n)”.

A$AP Rocky wears the L’Epée 1839 Grenade by Alex Moss in his music video for “Riot (Rowdy Pipe’n)”. Photograph: @ASAPROCKYUPTOWN/YouTube

“[A$AP Rocky] got here into the store,” Nicolas recounts, “and was chatting with Alex Moss. When his eye felt on the Grenade clock, it simply blew his thoughts and he needed one for himself. Then he determined to make use of it in [his music video].”

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L’Epée 1839 Grenade by Alex Moss. Photograph: L’Epée 1839

It’s secure to say that clocks’ attraction is noteworthy throughout the board. We’re trying ahead to extra choices from excessive horology manufacturers that do make clocks, particularly when designs are as specific as L’Epée 1839’s.

For Nicolas, the rising curiosity is palpable. “Ten years in the past I might name and say ‘I’m the CEO of L’Epée 1839. We make clocks,’” and folks would hold up. At this time persons are curious concerning the items and are available to us. At first persons are drawn by the design, however proceed to get pleasure from them as a result of they uncover all the small print and tales which have been embedded inside the mechanics.”

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